Towards the middle of February it seems already as though winter is coming to an end. Although most sheltered gardens will have had daffodils and crocuses at Christmas, nature comes back to life so early here.

As I write this, almond blossom and mimosa are a constant reminder - both in sheltered village gardens and out in the fields and " garrigue " - that here in south of France, winter does not last four months at all.

A strong wind, the biting " transmontane ", Languedoc relative of the " Mistral " will blow the clouds across the sea and the devastated winter landscape begins to show promise of the hot summer to come.

It is an ancient tradition in this part of the world to chase away the evil spirits of winter darkness by feasting, dancing and generally clowning around with a carnival which for the sake of the Christian calendar is usually organised on or around Shrove Tuesday, as a riot of merry-making before the austerity of Ash Wednesday and lent. Perhaps, because the climate here is one of violent change the tradition of carnival is as much alive today as it was centuries ago.

If lent was time for purification, you could really let your hair down during carnival and even today towns and villages will celebrate the occasion with gusto and enthusiasm. In Pézenas the " Poulain " is at the centre of all festivities, which generally last four or five days, starting with the "spectacle des Machous", a satirical show to criticise all official aspects of life in Pézenas and usually quite incomprehensible to people from elsewhere !

Usually anyone can go dancing at "le bal" organised each night and to a strange ceremony called the "danse du soufflet" and "feu aux fesses" that takes place on the Monday night where those participating in the carnival will blow winter away through paper horns and try to set alight each other's feathers attached to the back of costumes. However, this year the town authorities seem to have dampened the usual enthusiasm by not organising this event, much to the disgust of the "piscénois" or inhabitants of the town who felt their traditions should be respected.

During carnival the Poulain is quite a different animal from the amusing pantomime horse you will see prancing and dancing around the old quarter for the opening of the " Mirondela dels arts " in July (see our page on Pézenas) ; at the centre of the carnival, it becomes a strange master of ceremonies, uncontrollable and leading the normally staid population of the town in a frenzied and sometimes almost violent parade to chase away the winter.

Some will tell you that Shrove Tuesday is a dangerous day in the town. All the shops are shut and there is no school for children that afternoon. Who would want to be stuck in a classroom when there is so much fun going on outside ?

Old and young search for granny's old white nightshirt and nightcap, which they wear with brightly coloured leggings or purple and white rugby socks (the Pézenas colours) and a mask or at least a wig and colourful make-up so as to be quite unrecognisable. They dance after the poulain showering their comrades and all passers-by with flour, eggs, shaving cream, bangers. At the end of the carnival, "Lou Reï Carnaval" or king of the carnival - an enormous Guy is burnt to celebrate the end of the festivities and the "machous" sing : "Adiou paure carnaval, tens t'en bas e ieu démori" in local patois which means "farewell Mr. Carnival you go away and I stay here".